In order to ensure the stability of cosmetics , extend the life of storage and use , manufacturers add a variety of products antiseptic . And with microorganisms resistant to antiseptic is constantly enhanced , manufacturers will continue to update antiseptic varieties, the added amount of antiseptic . However, with the continuous improvement of people’s level of knowledge on the safety of antiseptic began to make all sorts of questions. Researchers also antiseptic safety were further study .

FANCL pioneered in Japan

Introduced the ” no added cosmetics”
Late last year and early this year , some media reports at home and abroad , ” cosmetics will accelerate aging , the culprit is antiseptic ,” all of a sudden all the antiseptic are denied. And a large cosmetics company marketing director also confirmed that : ” Nippon Life Safety Department of Kyoto Prefectural University of Medicinea professor questioned for cosmetic effect .” ‘ Findingsa professor showed increased after using cosmetics out wrinkles and light brown spots, the culprit for this phenomenon is paraben . ” To this end , the company began to use cosmetics unprecedented new antiseptic , and has been approved by Chinese authorities. Thus the antiseptic safety of the company into a new product “new claims ” and “new selling points .”

Thus, Japan FRAGANCE JOURNAL ” aroma magazine” organized a major Japanese cosmetics and materials company ‘s technical staff to write a series of articles , in April 2006 , published antiseptic effectiveness and safety of the special issue . The first paper in the editorial department of special comments made ??it clear that : ” paraben promote skin aging say there is no scientific basis , however plastic packaging box , too much exposure to parabens , for some people will have allergic or irritation .” . “For use with parabens in underarm cosmetics and carcinogenic individual cases , it should be carefully studied in order to confirm its authenticity .” However , after the storm , alternative research paraben esters also started further up .
Status and changes of generic antiseptic

antiseptic China is now widely used

Ministry of Health regulations on cosmetics, health , provides 55 kinds of antiseptic permitted use. If manufacturers addition varieties, must undergo strict disinfection and safety testing , and report approval.

antiseptic now widely used in Japan

Japan is now commercially available cosmetics, must be allowed to add an antiseptic from the positive list ( mutatis mutandis table) reproduces varieties to choose. Which were contained in an antiseptic are: parabens (parabens, which is commonly used parabens ) , salicylic acid and its esters ( salts ) class and alkyl plastic box dimethyl ammonium chloride Park (benzalkonium chloride , also known as medical benzalkonium chloride ) and the like cationic surfactants. Furthermore, Japan now used in several cosmetic effect is usually weak antiseptic compound with an alkylene glycol or the like with a polyhydric alcohol antiseptic effect added to the product , to maintain the cosmetics antiseptic properties, while vac tray also ensuring the safety of the product . For example FANCL in Japan pioneered the ” no added cosmetics” , it is not permitted to add an antiseptic above listed in the table , but with a polyol alkyl glycols and the like be antiseptic .

antiseptic United States and the European Union are now widely used

Cosmetics in the world allows the addition of antiseptic has its own laws or regulations. In the United States , even virulent like formaldehyde and mercury are also permitted as cosmetic antiseptic . Limit the types of antiseptic , increase the amount and scope of terms , each country is also a great difference. Some varieties are allowed in other countries , while in China and Japan has banned. For example, in plastic packaging the United States , mercury compounds in the eye cosmetics clamshell packaging limited use ( mercury content of no more than 65ppm). In the EU, allowing the use of formaldehyde in cosmetics , content must not exceed 0.2%. Goods can also be used in the oral cavity , the content does not exceed 0.1%.
In the United States , antiseptic and antioxidant and a chelating agent is the same , as a storage stabilizer. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to the list of U.S. commercial storage stabilizer being used in cosmetics , published once every two to plastic packaging design three years . Can be seen from Table 1 (p22), and related compounds with formaldehyde frequency of appearance of p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester is relatively high. In addition , the amount of antiseptic of European countries in cosmetics are often added 2 to 3 times similar products in Japan .

Cosmetics research topics of antiseptic

cosmetic antiseptic has the following characteristics :

1 ) cosmetics in use , often in direct contact with the material body with fingers or makeup packaging design appliances ( such as a brush , sponge ) , resulting in an unspecified number of micro-organisms contaminate the material body . According to the actual situation of the Japanese housewife using cosmetics investigation report showed that: Wash your hands before using cosmetics only plastic trays 22% of people . After removing the material body , and then returns the remaining portion of the container 64% . Especially housewives usually after cooking, washing and household chores such as sweeping , some microbes are stained fingers , which is a very serious cosmetic problem .

2 ) after opening cosmetics are generally intermittent use , the use of seasonal products continue to account for 89 percent next year , and some will even be used continuously for several years.

3 ) cosmetics are daily direct contact with the skin, household chemicals products, security is essential. ” Redness , stinging , itching , tight sense of ” other adverse symptoms must be avoided. The company must establish a system of autonomous antiseptic , attention from the security point of view , to choose the ingredients and methods.
4 ) cosmetics life first in its color and smell . So , in the formula , you should choose not affect the color and smell, little effect on product stability additives .

5 ) are different products of different microbial contamination . Creams and lotions susceptible to contamination , such as yeast and bacteria most microorganisms. Shampoo is easily contaminated with Pseudomonas aeruginosa mainly Gram -negative bacteria . Eyeliner , eye cosmetics like mascara be contaminated with Pseudomonas aeruginosa and yeast as well as a variety of Staphylococcus aureus bacteria based . Made from powdered raw materials and oil distribution from powder eye shadow and powder products are mainly contaminated by mold .

6 ) Many aqueous formulations in cosmetics , is hard to be free of microbial contamination of the aqueous formulation .

7 ) high water content cosmetic only , and is at room temperature , the commercial circulation . Place mostly cosmetic use bathroom or washroom , ambient temperature and humidity changes significantly . Under these harsh conditions storage, transportation or use , you must have long-term stability .

correct selection of antiseptic techniques

Ideal antiseptic should have the following conditions :

1 ) at low concentrations , which can have a preventive effect against a variety of microorganisms ;

2 ) is not affected by other ingredients in the formulation , the antibacterial effect is not so weakened ;

3 ) Even in a wide range of pH and temperature , can be long-term stable antimicrobial effect ;

4 ) soluble in water, and with the commonly used materials have good compatibility performance ; neutral , liquid color will not make significant changes in the product ;
5 ) does not affect the product ‘s appearance. Once added, no coloring , adverse consequences , such as discoloration or stink ;
6 ) non-toxic to humans , low skin irritation . Did not accumulate in the human body phenomenon ;
7 ) in terms of cost , is able to withstand in the range ;
After 8 ) is used, the activity is easy to eliminate . Easily decompose in nature . After decomposition products nontoxic .
Although able to meet all of these conditions antiseptic , in reality almost no . But it should be possible to select some of which both have certain conditions , but also with the antiseptic product features to choose its antiseptic into full effect .

Choose antiseptic techniques as follows:

1 ) must fully consider the compatibility with the other components of the performance and pH, ionic effect of the reaction . If ignored pH compatibility and impact properties in use, not only ineffective , but also chemical reactions impurities, decomposition of the other components to promote precipitation, and therefore affect the value in use . Because the mechanism of action has not been fully antiseptic research clearly , simply must be avoided in order to select the size of MIC values ??antiseptic . According to the activity of antiseptic method and mechanism of action, in the storage, transport and use of reduced activity can be avoided. In the selection process , to correctly determine the antiseptic effect is possible.

2 ) antiseptic effect is usually associated with the formulation of moisture content. Especially in the use of hydroxy acid esters stupid clear plastic packaging poorly soluble in water, antiseptic , it is necessary for the size of cosmetics from polar oil used , the ratio of oil and water , etc., to explore an appropriate amount of antiseptic .

3 ) propylene glycol, ethanol and the like monohydric alcohols and polyhydric alcohols are important components widely used in cosmetics . Glycerol and polyethylene glycol is usually used in an amount in the case of no antiseptic effect . And as hydroxy alkyl diol stupid acid esters have the same high antiseptic effect. Some polyalkylene glycol when used alone , but also Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Escherichia coli show a direct inhibitory effect. Recently discovered , fatty acid glycerides and some plant extracts on microbial growth inhibition. So, will the alkyl diol with antiseptic compound to obtain the color and smell and taste, and high security preparations .

4 ) a variety of cosmetic ingredients . Non- ionic surfactants are widely used in cosmetics, such as polyethylene glycol or a proteinaceous material to inhibit the activity of antiseptic .
5) After several antiseptic compound used, there is a mutually reinforcing effect. After a variety of antiseptic compound , using its superposition and synergistic effects, can reduce the amount added to improve the security and stability of the product . Such techniques are corporate intellectual property pitchfork . Since the new compounds constantly developed, with extensive use of hydroxy acid esters antiseptic stupid complex , with new and synergistic effects of corrosion superposition techniques are constantly developed.

Safety and Precautions 6 ) antiseptic properties of intelligence is the manufacturer must provide the product. Manufacturers must use the position to consider the issue when using the fine may occur . In particular, a long life requirements for cosmetics , should be considered in the future with the effects of temperature stability , pH dependence , and the deterioration of the light absorption of the vessel and other factors on the quality of products .

7 ) itself, even if an antiseptic high security , but its decomposition and reaction products and other raw materials is not necessarily safe. Furthermore , the decomposition products will have an adverse impact on quality . In order to understand how antiseptic environment will lose security , it is necessary for safety tests. In more severe conditions than the actual use , comprehensive and integrated manner selected antiseptic .

8 ) Food antiseptic techniques in one – reduce the water activity of the product effectively , so as to achieve enhanced ability to resist microbes , but also references to cosmetic antiseptic techniques in the past. In cosmetics, the water can be enhanced to reduce the effective capacity of the microorganism to withstand . The most effective means is to add the glycerin. Glycerin is a common moisturizing ingredients , glycerol added later , can be effectively reduced while the water activity.

9 ) as well as other anti-corrosion technology technology without adding preservatives . For example , single-use packaging ; setting the check valve in the bottle ; When active perishable packaged separately from other media , the use of combined.

shelf life of the product to ensure that play antiseptic effect

Product even after the adoption of various safety tests , in the future storage and use, is able to give full play to ” prevent pollution effect “, which is a very difficult task evaluation . Failure. Now, in the EU , as a commodity index to ensure the long-term effects , ” said the period after opening (PAO, Periods After Opening)” as a subject under study. Japanese manufacturers have opened attention to this issue. It seems that Chinese manufacturers should also be paying attention to this problem.

To formulate and manufacture of safe, high quality cosmetics , just add an antiseptic permitted use is not enough, you must also give full consideration to the environment and use of the product lifetime , to determine the use of products such as the impact of temperature and pH stability of long-term stability of the product basic guarantee conditions . Compile GCL

Jichuan Min First, a very active senior scholars . Gerontology Research , antioxidant , vitamins and other aspects of the disease is engaged . Author on the web browser after all his entries found no relation to the above . But to see another entry summary content is said: ” paraben itself toxic, but the action of ultraviolet light causes skin cells by death .” Cosmetics have long been on the safe use of methyl paraben suddenly pronounced as: ” will kill skin cells , promote aging of skin ,” which will have no small impact on all aspects .

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